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Visit the now-peaceful Somme countryside
The peaceful rolling farmlands of north-eastern France belie a turbulent and bloody past. Driving through green fields bathed in warm sunshine, it is hard to imagine the scenes of carnage and devastation which took place in the Somme about ninety years ago. But an underlying tinge of solemnity haunts even the brightest day, manifested in the dozens of small cemeteries where fallen soldiers lie, and the war memorials, small and great, which dot the countryside.
A holiday to remember
The steady stream of visitors from all over the world testifies to the continuing relevance of these reminders of the past. Many come in search of an ancestor’s grave, or to see where a relative spent the war. Each of the countless names on the memorials has some tragic story behind it. This brings the enormous scale of the horror down to a poignant, personal level.
The Battle of the Somme commenced on July 1st, 1916. Nearly 20,000 British soldiers fell on the first day alone. By the time it was over some five months later, one million people, from both sides, had lost their lives. The main British war memorial to those whose bodies were never identified is at Thiepval. The imposing columns viewed from the front are balanced by the quiet sadness of the individually marked graves, both French and British. Perhaps the most moving are those with the simple epitaph ‘Known unto God’. Not far away is the Ulster Tower, a reconstruction of Helen’s Tower, near Belfast, a memorial to the thousands of Ulstermen who gave their lives at the Somme.
Take it easy…
A camping holiday is a fitting way to pass your time in the Somme. Its gentle, lush valleys lend themselves to exploration by foot or on bicycle, truly the best ways to absorb the unique bittersweet atmosphere. Don’t rush around trying to see everything (for one thing, it’s impossible). Instead, a visit to the Somme should be a time for quiet contemplation and thankfulness.
Interesting towns
The now-peaceful and appealing towns of Albert and Arras merit each a leisurely stroll. The ‘Leaning Virgin’, a statue of Madonna atop the cathedral in Albert which was semi-toppled by a German bomb, became an icon of the Great War. The town now hosts the Musée des Abris, containing a renactment of life at the Somme.
Nearby Vimy Ridge is another name now infamous in military history. Captured by Canadian troops in April 1917 at huge cost, then made over to Canada is perpetuity, the area now hosts an information centre, reconstructed trenches and a huge, white monument to the dead.
Lots to do in Lille
While any visitor to the region cannot fail to be moved by the weight of history and tragedy, the area’s interest is also highly varied. The city of Lille, with its many restaurants, museums and cafés, is the young, yet historic, bustling yet refreshing, cultural capital of northern France. Families, and indeed all holiday-makers, will revel in the glorious expanse of beach at the ultimate seaside resort of Le Touquet-Paris-Plage. Its glamorous name harkens back to the days when it was the preferred and exclusive destination of rich Parisians, and indeed cross-channel hoppers. Don’t miss the lively weekly market held on Fridays, for stocking up on tasty local produce.
The Somme region is well serviced by flights, ferries and trains (the Eurostar arrives at Lille) from Britain and Ireland. Just a quick hop across the channel, or a short flight away, its makes an ideal choice for a holiday which is just that little bit more special.
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